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  FANCY A QUICK PLUCK? - EYEBROW SHAPING EXPLAINED


A feminine eyebrow shape with a high arch can help take a moderately proficient makeover to an almost miraculous transformation. Some of us are blessed with thinner brows than others and so we have less of an issue but for those of us with overly masculine eyebrows what are the methods and means open to us to feminize this critical facial feature?

Plucking is probably the widest used method and it is certainly the cheapest since all you need is a pair of tweezers, patience and a medium threshold for pain. However, we would strongly recommend against a first attempt on your own as any over-plucking mistakes can take weeks to grow back! Any reputable beauty salon will have skilled staff on hand and eyebrow shaping can be done for as little as $15 to $20 for a first session. Salons are used to shaping both men's and ladies brows these days, You'll just need to ensure you instruct the technician with regards to how feminine a shape you want.

Waxing is another method that is used increasingly by Beauty Salons as it can be very quick as compared to the more traditional plucking method. Whilst results are great with hot wax that is then stripped off to remove the offending hairs, it is even easier to go too far with brow removal during waxing than plucking and that is a risk many cannot take.

Perhaps, for many, the ideal is a combination of the two, particularly if you have thick overgrown eyebrows that almost join. Whatever you do, be sure to give clear instruction to any beauty technician as to how far a desired look you require - better they under-do it first time than over do it.

Trimming with small scissors or small eyebrow shavers can help to give a short term solution but again, great care must be given not to overdo it as mistakes will take weeks to grow out and eyebrows are a very noticeable feature on any person's face and any mistake will not go unrecognized.

So, what is the recommended method to use if a Beauty Salon is not a choice readily available and what if plucking, trimming, waxing and shaving are not an option at all? Are there any concealment methods that are more temporary so that all tell-tale signs can be done away with after dressing? Concealing and re-shaping without any loss of hair is a lot simpler solution than it sounds.

Concealing Eyebrows – A method used for years in the theatre whereby eyebrow or modeling wax is used to conceal the hairs of the eyebrows and then pan-stick and foundation are used to blend the area before the new eyebrow is drawn into place.

Most common products we know of are Mehron Modeling Wax and Crayolin Eyebrow Wax though there are many others. The products are very similar in that it tends to be a white wax that when worked between the fingers with bodyheat, it then becomes pliable and will smooth on easily over the eyebrows concealing them. Next, you use a Fixitive or cosmetic Sealer on top which usually comes in a nail-polish type bottle and is applied using a nail-polish type brush. Again, Mehron and Crayolin both have excellent products though there are others.

If using pan-stick as your beard concealer then you can blend this into the area before applying foundation and then powder so that you now have a clean skin-like surface to work on. Now the desired eyebrow shape needs to be sketched on using a good quality dark brown eyebrow pencil. If after the ideal shape has been drawn on there are still some tell-tale signs of the old brow, then use Mehron's Clown White and more foundation to blend in, finishing with powder again. Whilst the effect from a mirror 12 inches away may not seem the most subtle, once your wig and full makeover are in place, you will be amazed at the effect you can create - a new 'you' will literally emerge before your very eyes.

Mapping the Ideal Feminine Eyebrow. Watch any good beauty technician and you will see this method in action – in fact ask him/her to explain what they are doing. Take a pencil and line it up with the outside of the nose pointing it vertically upwards. Where the pencil/line traverses the natural eyebrow, then that is the point at which the eyebrow should start or better still, just a little inside the line. Any hair outside of that line (i.e. towards the nose) should be removed. Now, holding the base of the pencil at the outer edge of the nose, rotate it in an arc to the point whereby it dissects the center of the pupil – this is the line at which we find the high point of the brow so prevalent with female eyebrows. Now continue to rotate the pencil toward the outer edge of the eye to find the point at which the brow should end. This end point and the start point of the eyebrow should be at the same level.

Before You Start. As with any makeover techniques we recommend, time, patience and practice are your best allies – there are no quick fixes to mastering these arts unfortunately, unless you go the route of the beauty salon. With any eyebrow shaping remember to:

  • Remove hairs clearly outside of the regular eyebrow line, especially outside the start line
  • If attempting to shape by plucking or trimming do a (very) little at a time if you do not want others to notice in your day to day life/guise
  • If using tweezers, be precise and pluck only one hair at a time - do not be tempted to pluck multiple hairs at one go
  • Work from the inside of the eye to the outer corner and go one row at a time, carefully if you are removing hair
  • When using Eyebrow Wax, be sure to use fixative/concealer after the wax is applied but before pan-stick and /or foundation are applied
If plucking and permanent shaping is not an option (even very subtly) then we highly recommend the Concealing method. It works extremely well and stays in place. The concealing is the easy bit but you will need to practice drawing in the correct feminine eyebrow shape, however even there, assistance is at hand. There are now eyebrow stencils available to make even this fool-proof ! Good luck and be sure to let us know if you have any other questions.
 
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